BIET ENDA MARIAM - ASMARA

Biet Enda Mariam.

This was the first church I visited upon starting my monastic tour of Eritrea in January 2024. It must have been my second day in Eritrea since we were still in Asmara. I asked my uncle how far the walk was and he offered to take me and of course my mom tagged along. Walking up to the church behind my mom and uncle. I was straying behind, snapping photos and listening to them recall memories of when they’d make this walk in their childhood.

Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral stands on the original site of the Four Villages (Arbate Asmere) giving Asmara its name. Legend says initially there were 4 villages living the area who were constantly bickering with each other. As more outsiders came by, the village heads were encouraged (some say by their wives) to establish peace amongst themselves in a self-preservationist effort lasting to this day.

Believers are greeted at the entrance by beautiful mosaics representing stylized Christian figures, everywhere you turn there is an angelic icon watching over you. It’s said the original church, then a traditional hidmo structure, stood for centuries before the arrival of the Italians. In 1920, a larger church was built then again renovated in 1938 which we see today. In front, two massive towers rise, reminiscent of ancient Axumite pillars.