GEDAM ENDA YONAS - NEAR MENDEFERA

 

Gedam enda yonas.

South-east of Mendefera on a sloping ledge, one can find Gedam Enda Yonas situated after a long winding hike up the mountain side. Within the monastery walls are an old abandoned church, a church dedicated to namesake Abune Yonas, another newly developed church, an Independence war memorial, and some living quarters for the monks. My paternal family has held close ties with this monastery for generations. When the monks came down to the villages in the lowlands, they would lodge in my grandfather’s home in Awdohi.

Above: The sign above me translates to “This chair belongs to Abune Yonas” where he would read, pray, and teach those willing to listen.

Above: This is the old abandoned church. Most of what was once windows and doors are closed off by brick and stone, leaving a single entrance once must crouch to get through. The church with the traditional Eritrean architectural parts Narthex (Quene Mehlet), Choir (Qeddest), and Holy of Holies (Maqdas).

Above: The western wall of the Maqdas is covered with paintings depicting episodes of the life of Christ (Palm Sunday), the crucifixion, and the lives of the Saints (St. John, St. Paul, and St. Mercurius on the black horse). The name of the patron who funded the artworks can be found on the wall as well: “Has executed the painting: Barabas Tasfa Maryam in 1886”. Since we use our own calendar, we can estimate the work was done around 1894-1895 AD.

Below: The walls of the ancient Qeddest consists in flat limestone framed with short wooden beams with projecting crosses called “monkey heads”.

Above: The newest built church on monastic grounds dedicated to 3 religious figures: Abune Yonas, the Virgin Mary, and the Angel Gabriel. In front of the church rests a monument dedicated to the martyrs of the Eritrean Liberation war.

Above: There were parts of the monastic grounds banned to women, so I was able to rest in this room for the nuns who live here. They brought me shiro and shared bits of their lives while we waited for the monk to return with my uncle. Every inch of this small room was covered with icons and crosses. I shared with the nun how I also create digital icons like the ones that illuminated the room. I pulled out my phone and as I was sharing a few, in walked the 2 missing parties. I shared some of my illustrations with the monk to which he exclaimed “betami tsubuh gualna” (“Beautifully done, our daughter”). He asked if he could take a picture of my phone. I was confused at first, then I realized it was his only option to holding on to these pictures. I couldn’t send them to him, being in a state without internet. He took pictures of 3 illustrations: “Defend Us in Battle” “ Spirits Visit on Lidet” and “Cultural Conduit”.